Through an Indigenous lens: Imagining the future of Point Reyes National Seashore
A Conversation with Alliance for Felix Cove Founder Theresa Harlan
For time immemorial, Támal-ko (now known as Coast Miwok) people lived on and cared for the windswept coastal lands of Tamal Huye, now known as Point Reyes National Seashore. That history was nearly erased over the last century and a half, as colonial settlers fenced Indigenous lands for dairy ranching, replaced native grasses for European grasses, and pushed out Támal-ko families from their ancestral homes. Támal-ko ancestors continued to labor on ranches as they did in Spanish missions and Mexican ranchos. . Even with the establishment of the National Park in 1962, commercial ranching continued through leasing, a contradiction in the use of park lands.
That is now about to change. A landmark settlement announced in January will essentially end commercial ranching in Point Reyes National Seashore. For Theresa Harlan, this represents an opportunity to bring Indigenous ecological knowledge and traditions to the work of restoring vital ecosystems. For Theresa, now is the moment for all of us to imagine: what could the future of Point Reyes look like if Indigenous people were invited to once again care for their own ancestral homelands?
As someone with ancestral roots on this land, what do you think needs to be understood about the impact of ranching in Point Reyes?
“That’s such an important question. Because even with my history here, it’s something I’ve had to learn throughout my own journey.
When I first went down to the Cove with my sister, looking out at the cows grazing along the Pacific Ocean, with hawks and other wildlife in sight, I thought “what a beautiful place to be a dairy cow.” As we went back through down, I even bought two glasses with dairy cows embossed on them as a memento. Years later, I’ve saved those glasses as a symbol of all I’ve learned about the realities of what ranching has done to this land, and about the experiences of Indigenous peoples whose ancestors cared for it.”
“I learned about the history of colonialism on these lands, beginning with Spain, then Mexico and the United States, and how the introduction of livestock and western agricultural practices has destroyed so much of the plants and native grasses that the ecosystem needs to thrive.
I learned that the tax dollars I contribute to support Point Reyes National Seashore to fulfill its mission “to preserve and protect its natural and cultural resources for present and future generations” have actually been facilitating the destruction of these lands.
And I learned that ranchers' need for land ultimately led to the eviction of my family from their ancestral home at Felix Cove–and the general erasure of Indigenous experiences and histories in this region.
Sharing those stories and grappling with those realities is part of our work at the Alliance for Felix Cove. Because only when we see the damage ranching has done–the ground becoming barren from overgrazing, manure running off into the waters, the entrapment of our relatives the tule elk–can we recognize the need to take action and protect these lands for future generations.”
What was your first thought when you learned about the settlement?
“It’s certainly good news that 12 of the 14 ranches are leaving the park, as a result of environmental advocates suing the National Park for mismanagement. We’re celebrating that as a major step forward.”
“Above all, this settlement opens possibilities for renewing the land. I’m excited to see the ways that the land can spring back, for the animals and plants to return–if we can give them that change.
But as with all things involving politics and money, the current situation is also a mess. There are multiple lawsuits against the Park and the Nature Conservancy–and Republicans in the House are actually investigating the legality of the settlement. On the community level, there is anger and frustration on all sides of the issue. We absolutely share concerns about ranch workers and what happens to them–their income, their homes, their communities–when the ranches close. It doesn’t come as a great surprise that people failed to consider what workers stand to lose–and we support the call for attention to these disparities.
With all of these complexities, it’s difficult to forecast what’s going to happen. For our part, we’re focused on bringing Indigenous voices into these conversations about the future of Point Reyes. With all the recent attention and news coverage, there’s been little room made for Indigenous perspectives. People with ancestral connections to these lands should and must be a part of determining its future.
Our vision plan for Felix Cove–which we submitted to the Park–includes facilitating community meetings that would bring together Coast Miwok, California Indian community members, San Francisco Bay Area Inter-Tribal community members, Indigenous organizations, Federated Indians of Graton Rancheria, as well as local residents, organizations, and businesses and environmental groups, to define a community-based plan for the future of Point Reyes. Even if we don’t agree on everything, if we hold to Indigenous principles–relationship, reciprocity, respect, responsibility, generosity, and abundance, we can co-create a shared vision of abundance that renews the land and allows us all to thrive.”
Is there a shared Indigenous perspective on the future of Point Reyes?
“I wish that question had an easier response. I do think Indigenous people share principles and beliefs that allow us to connect as relatives and to act together to care for Mother Earth. But of course there is divisiveness in our communities as well.
The Park has an agreement with Federated Indians of Graton Rancheria, the federally recognized tribe–but there is such a wider range of Indigenous viewpoints and relationships from other Indigenous organizations, such as the Coast Miwok Tribal Council of Marin and Indigenous community members with long histories of ceremony at Kule Loklo. Kule Loklo now sits neglected like Felix Cove. That’s why we believe it's critical to facilitate more conversations with Indigenous organizations and community members, and we’re ready to support the Park in making that happen.
One of the impacts of colonialism is that it separated Indigenous peoples from one another. I’m a Native woman born from my Kewa Pueblo birth mom and my Jemez Pueblo birth dad., At birth I was adopted by my Támal-ko mom–and so people often ask why I’m doing this work, why my voice matters here. Intergenerational and cultural trauma has led us to a place where we don’t know or trust each other. I think it’s possible for us to come together and ask–what do we share as Indigenous peoples? We share love for our family members and ancestors. We share love for the land and the water. That’s where we need to begin.
I’m doing this work because of my mom who loved and nurtured me. Protecting Felix Cove means creating a place for others to know my mom’s life and our family’s lives matter and are significant to be known as part of California’s history. I do this work for my love for my mother, for her family, and for the love of future generations. “
What are your hopes for bringing Indigenous voices into this conversation, as the Park determines its next steps?
“My hope is that folks who believe in rematriation or Landback movements can inspire community members to come together and imagine the future of Point Reyes, through an Indigenous love for Mother Earth.”
“One of the ways we do this is by bringing people down to the Cove, to begin relationships with ancestral plants and animals, and to take part in our cultural lifeways–like building tule canoes. Incredible things happen when we’re able to gather in the spaces where our ancestors lived. It becomes this beautiful process of community in relationship, learning and teaching each other the skills of our parents and grandparents.
As we work to create these spaces at the Cove, we’re really modeling what the future could look like–if Indigenous people have a central role in the Park’s future. It’s one that’s inclusive, and engages everyone in the nurturing of the land. Historically our ancestors lived in villages that were connected but also autonomous.. We welcome and honor the diversity of Indigenous ancestral knowledge and skills and experiences of the many community members who visit Felix Cove and participate in our workshops. We encourage relationship building among community and with ancestral lands and waters–and that’s something the Park simply can’t do on its own.”
There’s still a long road ahead in determining the Park’s future–but what happens if we get it right? In a decade, what do you see when you take that drive down to the Cove?
“Getting it right means returning to the use Indigenous knowledge practices to care for the land. We need to bring Indigenous ancestral skills holders and Indigenous ecological scientists together to share their insights on how to heal the land and the water, to restore a healthy and abundant ecosystem.”
“And right now, given the situation at the federal level, the National Park Service is itself under attack. So my question is–how can community-based organizations, as well as national organizations like the Nature Conservancy, come together to support these conversations now, while we still have an opportunity to define a better future for Point Reyes?
If that’s the path we take together, then in the future, I see beauty. I see creativity. As I walk down to the Cove, I see healthy, thriving plants–thimbleberries, coyote brush, hazelnut, strawberries. I see signs that share stories of my ancestor’s lives and experiences. I see people working in gardens of medicine and food plants. I see the house is no longer boarded up, but open to visitors, encouraging them to reflect on their own ancestors who guide their lives. I see gathering places, people working on building a tule canoe or learning to make baskets. I see kids running around–just so much life.
If that’s the path we take, Felix Cove, as well as other places in the park, will embody the fullness of Indigenous history and culture and storytelling, honoring the legacy of our ancestors and providing everyone with the chance to reconnect with Mother Earth.”